Continuing on Shakespeare cooking themes, I decided to make mince pies for the holidays. I've had an almost gross fascination with the dish ever since I found out a few years ago from Missy that they are traditionally made of meat mixed with fruit. Since I had imagined that they were more like a gooey nut pie, something like a pecan pie, I was horrified by this vision of a beefy apple pie.
Naturally, when we started thinking about Shakespeare cooking, I decided if I wanted to do something truly Shakespearean, I'd have to make the traditional mince pie.
I prepared a lot. In modern times, we associate Elizabethan cooking often with feasting, so there was much holiday themed material available. I listened to the conveniently timed podcast episode from the Folger Shakespeare Library about Elizabethan cooking.
I also watched/listened to this Youtube episode of The Tudors' Bizarre 12 Days Of Christmas Ritual shared by Missy. Tudor times are a tad bit before Shakespeare but were still close. One fun thing was that people back then used to fast leading up to the 12 days of feasting, both to save up resources for the feast but also to be nice and hungry so you could fill up on the good foods. There's also footage of a pig head being sort of deboned and then re-stuffed with edibles, sewn up and cooked.
I started to better understand the flavor profile of a mince pie. Our friend Kathryn pointed me in the right direction. Think orange chicken. My mind went to raisins in pulao/pilaf and suddenly I was starting to get it. It wasn't beefy apple pie. It was just...beef pie.
I decided to use the Folger recipe also nicely timed in release and began to acquire ingredients. I couldn't find orange peel. After a short and exciting stint of anesthesia-fueled shoplifting, (the doctor said I could drive but forgot to mention that I may have gaps in memory such as forgetting you have to pay for goods and only remembering one hour later that such legal norms exist), I had acquired (and paid for) candied citron.
This led me to listen to another podcast about whether citron was an appropriate Shakespearean substitute for orange peel. (It is. Also, I learned that an archaeobotanist is a real job and now I think I didn't dream big enough when I was deciding my career.)
You would think, after all this, I could start cooking. No. Because every recipe says to start with cooked beef. It doesn't say HOW to cook the beef and I myself only cook beef every five years or so and have little experience. Someone on Reddit said just do a pot roast. I was planning on making 4 cupcake sized pies so that was too much beef. Eventually I came across a note in the cookbook Missy gave me about parboiling it.
I'm not sure if I could have just parboiled it with just salt. The thought is only now occurring to me. Pakistani meat must be cooked with garlic so after searching whether Shakespeare had garlic (he did) I parboiled the meat with garlic, salt, black pepper, and ground cumin (they had that too.) Only now do I think, I really should have used the long pepper Missy gave me. I forgot.
It looked as grey as any recipe video I'd watched, once I took it out and chopped it up:
I edited the photo to look more appealing and less grey:
The fruits were supposed to be 7 parts to 10 parts beef. I decided to use citron and raisins. I skipped the prunes suggested after conferring with my stomach. I also used butter instead of beef suet.
Our spice grinder broke so I had the authentic experience of grinding my spices with a mortar and pestle.
Cloves:
Mace:
I did a thing not in the recipe in which I mixed all the ingredients together with the stock and then simmered it to meld the flavors together. I think it was a good decision.
I had scaled down the recipe so much that I was eyeballing some of the ingredients. THAT is a tad too much sugar.
Shakespeare had puff pastry which is great because I don't like pie crust usually:
Filled them up. So it turns out I had enough to make 9 instead of 4. I had done a little tasting so I was feeling ok about this:
Sealed them up and cut vents:
While they baked, I decided to look up what was served with mince pie. Tea? It turns out tea came to England later and celebrations would have mulled wine, beer, mulled cider, etc. So I made up a quick mulled drink made of juice, a slice of orange and cinnamon. It was great.
And then I had some:
It was...good!
The criticisms are towards my own cooking. I knew I had added too much sugar but it was too late. I think I could have added more cloves and mace and maybe a little more salt would have balanced out the sugar.
Far from wanting to puke, having to explain to the family why they shouldn't consume them, or having to throw them out, we went through them in two days. Huge success!
They're heavy. Puff pastry full of meat and butter is not the snack that cupcake portion is implying. These are a savory dish and definitely not a dessert. Traditionally, the sugar was meant to help preserve the dish longer, in times without a refrigerator and now that we have such high levels of sugar in all of our processed foods, I don't think the sweetness really registered as dessert to me.
One of the reasons I haven't cooked more Shakespeare food is that Shakespearean recipes feel so alien to me and I cook very instinctively, so I need to know what flavors I'm aiming for at the end. This experience made me think, it may not be as difficult as I thought.
On to more serious Henry thoughts.